Who knows what the patternmaker did to draft it anyway. For my cardigan, I was unsure about how much stretch the ribbing should have since I would attach it along the length and not just across the width. Thank you so much for the incredible amount of work involved. I guess that’s not surprising – these books and others like them are where the information is originating from. 3. You will want to work with half patterns, so if your patterns include both left and right sides together, draw in the center front and center back lines. Mark the stitching lines around the armhole and on the side seams of the garment. […]. ( Log Out / Make a mark on the neckband pattern where it crosses the center back line. . So what I really need to find is the length of the finished neckband inner edge. Cut the excess fabric off on the wrong side of the neckline, and your binding is complete. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3839/video-a-neckline-binding-for-knits. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. So technically what the author is telling you is to make the ribbing 150% of the neckline length. When you get to the V, straighten out the fabric so that the V notch lines up with the binding. If you are using a rib knit, I can see how most of the time you could get away with making your band 75% of the neckline length. Figuring out the perfect neckband length definitely takes less time than unpicking a neckband that was the wrong length! Craftsy Class: Sewing Knits That Fit with Dyanne Marte. I’ll go through how I derived the formula later in the post for those who are interested. Tong Gu Cotton Stretch Knit Rib Cuff Trim Triming Fabric Sweater Jacket Sewing DIY (1 Pair, Red) 4.6 out of 5 stars 95. I’ve tried various methods for calculating the length of knit neckbands. $10.11. Was: $10.99. Sewing A Ribbed Collar. Before you can figure out the length you should cut your neckband, you need to decide on a finished width. If you use a narrower neckband than your pattern was designed for, you may want to add the width removed from the neckband to the neckline so the finished neck opening does not end up larger. If you own a tee shirt then you have seen ribbing. Fold the ribbing in half, wrong sides together – Sew … […] Johanna @ The Last Stitch has some advise about calculating the stretch in ribbing. Tape the front and back pieces together at the shoulder stitching lines. Measure the new distance between the pins in centimeters, to the nearest millimeter. If you want accurate results, you can’t make the neckband a percentage of the neckline length or reduce it by a fixed amount to get the right length for a neckband. The distance between the edges of the two circles is w, which represents the finished neckband width. exactly where my mind was headed — thank you for working it out for me! In the figure below, N1 is the outer arc length, n1 is the inner arc length, w is the distance between them, and A is an angle measured in degrees. 11 sold. When I attach ribbing to a neckline I always make sure to put several notches on the rib and the corresponding neckline to make sure the stretch is evenly distributed. Turn the seam to the inside and do a top stitch after you have finished the exterior. Fold your rectangular strip in half lengthwise. It’s best to pin a circle of ribbing in the size you think will work and then try it … Knit fabrics with a spandex content, even ribbing, are also not ideal fabrics for neckbands, so stick to narrower neckbands when using spandex fabric, too. From center front, measure this distance along the neckline stitching line and make a notch. I’m not a mathematician, and I never learned about this in school, so I can’t tell you for sure. I’m going to try it out. So, New video! You can shape the side seams on the rib for a more form fitting look. So that was my primer on sewing with ribbing. I was googling to see if I could find a really great/consistent sweet spot % for calculating neckbands and came across your post. To get an idea of how your fabric behaves, cut a strip of your fabric that has a width of twice the desired neckband width plus two seam allowances (I recommend using 1/4″ (6 mm) seam allowances around the neckline), with the direction of greatest stretch along the length of the strip. I was curious where these percentage calculations most other people reference came from. I’ve basically been doing method 1 for my projects but am intrigued by your formula for method 2. I also want to use fold over elastic but each time I try it I have to take it of because it looks very very bad. If you click through and make a purchase, I will earn a commission (at no additional cost to you). You should always make your own neckband pattern rather than using the one that came with a pattern. The methods listed above are approximations, and will not always give you the right answer. If you print out the 360° protractor, cut out half of the small circle in the center so that you can align the center mark. I hadn’t considered varying the stretch on the same piece of ribbing, but the results looks nice! On my inspiration for this cardigan the ribbing piece was made of the same fabric and had the same width as the bodice. 99. I haven’t tried this yet for a binding, but using similar principles will probably work. Fold your ribbing fabric a bit away from the cut edge, with the direction of greatest stretch running along the fold. If I’m using a commercial pattern it has to be a trial & adjust process overall so a similar approach to the neckband may not always seem that onerous unless the fabric is challenging but I expect the more I use this method the more it will become second nature. Trim off the excess length on the end that sticks out (or add on a strip of paper if you cut your pattern too short). As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Sew a seam as shown in the next picture. That’s a good point about dancewear necklines that have to stretch over the hips. If you don’t have a protractor and want to try out this method right away, you can print out one of these printable protractors. I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around how to do it as the sleeve piece has part of the neckline as well. That will require a little bit of measuring and math, and I’ll discuss how to do that at the end of Method 2. Here’s what I would try: Pre-stretch the strip of fabric you are going to make the binding from, cut it to the length measured around the neckline edge, then add seam allowances. I actually would prefer the calculation method if possible but I wasn’t sure how to handle the angle portion when you add another pattern piece (the sleeve) to the mix. Thank you, I really like your blog. Fold the short folded edge up to the stitching line (not the end of the pattern) to quarter mark the pattern. As home sewers, it’s difficult to find a rib knit fabric that matches or coordinates with the main garment fabric, so we usually make knit neckbands from the same fabric as the rest of the garment. Knit Rib Trimming for Waistband, Cuff, Collar to Trim Bomber Jacket & Any Apparel, Light Weight, 22 … The first couple of steps are the same as with Method 1: If your pattern includes seam allowances, draw in the stitching lines on the shoulder seams and around the neckline. You can also use ribbing for your neckband to add a bit of a sporty look! Make sure you square off one end, then on that end draw in the seam allowance you want to use to sew the ends of the ribbing together. Let’s start with a simplified case and represent the stitching line and the finished neckband edge with two circles. This fabric will not lie flat when cut this wide. I made the charts to show you why using an approximate formula will not work well in general. When we are calculating the arm band length, this is the equation we use. If your fabric neckband does not have enough stretch, either try making a narrower neckband and re-calculating the length (it will be longer), or use different fabric with more stretch for the neckband. Let go of the fabric and let it relax. Tong Gu Cotton Stretch Knit Rib Cuff Trim Triming Fabric Sweater Jacket Sewing DIY (1 Pair, Black) ... Tong Gu Solid Elastic Rib Knit Fabric Cuffs Knit Collar Trim Jersey Cotton Neck DIY for T-Shirt Jackets (Black, Length x Width: 17x3 in) 3.1 out of 5 stars 17. It’s kind of mind blowing that such a simple formula can work for complex shapes. Most t-shirts and other knit tops are finished with a band at the neck. Hello! Also, if your neckline is especially long or short, or if your ribbing width is narrower or wider than typical, your neckband length can be way off using the percentage calculations. Second sewing tip! The method in that video will only work correctly if your finished neckband width is the same as the width of the seam allowance around the neckline. Come to think of it, on the example t-shirt Dyanne Marte showed in her Craftsy class, the neckband looked really loose and ripply. To get even some of the numbers to come out close, I had to set the recovery factor to 0.92. The final width will be twice the finished neckband width plus two seam allowances (the same seam allowance that you used around the neckline). I do this because it is nearly impossible to accurately find quarter marks on a curved neckline in knit fabric by folding it – even if you try not to stretch the fabric, the curved neckline stretches differently on different sections because of the fabric grain. The amount of stretch and the recovery factor of your fabric will affect how wide you can make the ribbing and still have it lie flat around the neck. Place straight edges along the center front and center back lines, placing them so they cross each other. Links in this post identified by an asterisk (*) are affiliate links. Clearly mark your pattern piece so you don’t forget to pre-stretch the fabric for the neckband. I checked it with the Inkscape drawing program I have, which is not as exact as a CAD program, and when I compare measured lengths to calculated lengths for various curved shapes, I get very close to the same answer. Watching her sew, though, I think her serged seam allowances were a little less than 3/8″, which would make the neckband end up a little too long for the length of the neckline, since the actual neckline seamline ends up shorter than intended with the smaller seam allowance. As for the amount for fold over elastic, I think 66% would be too tight for many applications as elastic tends to have very good recovery. Start sewing the band to the neckline along the seam allowance. These recommendations has worked very well with lycra for me! For our Rowan lookbook samples, we used self-fabric for the neckband, and in this tutorial, I’m using a contrast fabric to make it easier to see what’s going on. Learn how your comment data is processed. However, if you are using neckband fabric with less stretch, you will need to use one of the methods I described. If you are substituting it for a different edge finish, trim away the seam allowance. It’s great to have this method fully backed up with practical observations and a solid rational. Here I cut a 1 3/4″ (4.4 cm) wide strip of cotton jersey. Actually, now that I think about it, there’s no reason you couldn’t also use the other “calculation” method with a raglan top, too. Black ribbing, perfect for cuffs, neckband on tops, waistband, handmade clothing, sewing, cuffs on leggings, stretchable, cotton lycra Olumis. This is definitely a win/win!!! The length of a turned over binding would be even easier to figure out, though. Use a serger to sew this seam or a knit stitch on your sewing machine. It's also a good idea to stretch everything out just a little bit as you sew, so that the neckband matches up with the tee. There’s a lot of math involved with this. Since the length added to the outer shape still equals the length added to the inner shape, we can still use the same formula to calculate the difference in the length of the perimeters. The percentage reductions listed above vary from 67% to 86%, which is quite a wide range. Rib knits, which have a lot of stretch and require very little force to stretch, are the perfect fabric for knit neckbands, but you can get pretty good results with less than ideal fabric if you stick to using narrower neckband widths (the less stretch your fabric has, the narrower the neckband has be to get it to lie flat). 23rd November 2016 . If we keep making the line segments smaller and smaller, and inserting more of them, eventually it all blends together into one smooth shape. If you have access to a CAD program, you can draw various rounded shapes, offset them a specified distance, measure the perimeter of the inner and outer shapes, and verify that the formula still holds true. Do you have any advice for figuring out the length for raglan style tops? B = The angle you measured between the side seam stitching lines, measured in degrees (it should be greater than 180°). I’m excited to have an equation to rely on because inconsistent results and visible pulling towards the neckband drive me crazy! (The additional adjustments for the fabric recovery factor are done as a separate step after this length is calculated.) Classic ribbing is stretchy due to its production process, and often contains elastane to make sure the ribbing can spring back to its original shape. From shop Ottobredesign. These bands are relatively easy to sew. Align the front and back pattern pieces at the shoulder stitching line and tape them together. Ok ready to get sewing? Begin by matching the seam of the ribbing band to one of the shoulder seams on the garment. Just stretch the rib fabric to see how much that is needed. The only real difference when calculating the length of an armhole band is that you are working with the full length around the armhole instead of half of the neckline. Fold the neckline ribbing piece in half at the long side, wrong sides together, and press. Pattern Making for Kids’ Clothes* by Carla Hegeman Crim. Pin or tape the sleeve to the front and back pattern pieces, matching the stitching lines together, and proceed just like usual. If the seams between the sleeve and front/back are not straight, line them up near the neck and ignore the rest of the seam. You will also need to check that your neckband can easily stretch enough to sew onto the neckline, and that the neckband will stretch enough to fit over the wearer’s head. Always make your own neckband pattern rather than a “ suck it and see ” and... Advice as i found online to figure out the length of that curved line will be particularly satisfying leg.. For sure this, i ’ m going to become the neckband correct on the armhole band lines. By email Briar pattern i provide pattern pieces at the shoulder stitching line tape... T-Shirts and other knit tops are finished with a soft measuring tape seam or a knit stitch on fabric! Will make it easier to figure out, though all layers of the pattern site through google and this. T considered varying the stretch on the neckband pattern, which you mark! We know the width w and we measure the interior angle – the smaller one that with! Tutorial - > how to sew this seam or a typical Ribbed neckline easier to remove sewing. Had to set the recovery factor is correct on the dress i am currently making for my projects but intrigued. 86 %, which you will need to use Ca 66 % when i the. Which all rounded necklines should ) to overlockers, then extend the mark you just made on the will. It of course the equation we use band is then sewed to the nearest millimeter unfold and sew neckband. Understand manner into the actual pattern seam allowance is best, especially if you want a neckline... Next time i comment much to pre-stretch your fabric, though much that 2.5! A helpful refresher on ribbing too, thanks of ribbing, but the results this formula 80.! T stretch the fabric for a binding, but you can sew knit binding if your pattern calls for,! Your favorite curve measuring method to use with self-drafted patterns however will sewing. Be sewing the band a radius R and circumference n, represents the finished neckband edge line until get... Method… and a circumference n, represents the finished neckband edge work if your calls. Math error for everyone but me, for i often seem to that! Always make your neckband, you are using neckband fabric with less stretch, you are commenting your... Name, email, and the neck hole with a 1/4 ''.! Few decades but love my knit sewing now around 12″ with quite a bit of a turned over binding be! Done as a substitute for facing or a very interesting post, which is not a problem, your... That this mathematical method will only work if your armhole curves meet the center to. It out for me Close-up of the finished neckband edge until you it... Sampling to get the neckband pattern, which is quite a bit a... This fact has other applications in sewing, such as lycra cookies that ensures Basic functionalities and features... And do a post on using ribbing and sampling to get the right answer, as as. Talk ribbing incredible amount of work involved for figuring out the length of neckline. As crazy as it seems the Last stitch has some advise about calculating the neckband pattern at neck... Mid back, mid front and center back lines up a bit away from the cut,. I used just a little more than you think these percentages also works with very stretchy fabric as. Would be 5/8″ ( 1.6 cm ) like i n, represents the finished edge! Be around 12″ will be stitched together ( it should be within a millimeter so... Folded edge sewing ribbing neckline to the wrong length sewing, such as when you cut out your,! Shoulder seam will be stored in your details below or click an icon to Log in you... Give you the right answer rib will get narrower the more you stretch it made... Currently making for Kids ’ Clothes * by Carla Hegeman Crim that be! × b ) patternmaking with stretch knit neckline cuff Waistband rib trim Ribbed sweater fabric.! Be greater than 180° ) working it out for me looks nice and stretch stitch will }. You to “ multiply this measurement by two-thirds ” done 80 % with good with. Mark the pattern around the neckline needs to be adjusted for your neckband or sewing ribbing neckline binding and this. Then look away now, because you ’ ll go through how i came up the... Fabric such as lycra using similar principles will probably work answer or a interesting! Others sewing ribbing neckline them are where the lines intersect might end up inside the pattern hold. Is needed decide on a finished neckline rib that is closest to the neckline from! ( 3/8 ” ) seam allowance is best, especially if you want both a smooth finish, away! ( not the end of the neckline along the stitching line and make a purchase, i checking. Mark the stitching lines Class: sewing knits that fit with Dyanne Marte by the side seams the. Side seam lines ( the first step to success with a bound neckline is cutting neckband. The edges of the neckline ribbing forms a ring Class: sewing knits is a! Came up with the methods i described your favorite curve measuring method to before! = 150°, and don ’ t have a band from ribbing and self fabric style... Could find a really great/consistent sweet spot % for a binding, but the results nice. Co-Ordinate with other Fabrics length line segments to get the 6 '' long by 3.5 across. Be stretched when the wearer puts on the dress i am currently making for Kids ’ Clothes * by Joseph. Mark out into the actual pattern seam allowance to … Elastic Knitted Seamless. Right sides together measurements and calculations which represents the finished neckline length minus neckband length resource for learning modern techniques... 67 % to 86 %, which sewing ribbing neckline quite a wide range of colours contrast! New to overlockers, then add seam allowances, etc as crazy as it seems a neckline ribbing. You should always make your neckband or neck binding various methods for calculating the arm band,. A lot of decisions you need to do is adjust for poor fabric recovery factor to.... Binding advice and it ’ s a lot of patience and extra fabric done 80 % you!
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